Partnering with the right stylist can change your entire attitude toward your hair, that's why this week I'm focusing on finding the right hairdresser. I'm sharing red and green flags for clients to look out for when they're searching for a salon and teaching you to advocate for your hair. I'm also giving my advice to current and prospective beauty professionals on retaining clients and supporting clients' long-term hair goals.
It’s almost that time of year again. We just came out of a really hot summer and may still be rocking our protective styles. Now it’s officially fall ya’ll! What does that mean? It automatically means cooler weather, less humidity, silk presses, and braids.
There’s been great debate as to whether or not protective styling does more harm than good. The majority of us “put our hair up” simply because we want to give our hair a break. We’re tired of trying to manage it every day and just want to leave it alone so it can “grow”. Let’s talk about three ways you can get the most out of your protective styles!
The best analogy I can give is to liken our scalp to the soil and our hair to the leaves from a plant. Anyone who loves to garden knows the importance of having good soil. The soil sets the foundation as to whether or not the plant will be healthy. The same goes for our scalp. Product companies spend billions and billions of dollars on marketing ads for conditioners, serums, and the likes. The truth of the matter, proper growth starts at the dermal papilla of the hair. The dermal papilla is responsible for inducing hair growth, regulate follicle pigmentation, and creating the right environment for growth.'
We’ve been taught improperly cleansing of the scalp! Just like our face and skin, our scalp needs to be constantly exfoliated. When you exfoliate the scalp you’re allowing the hair follicles to become unclogged and promote growth. The hair and scalp must be treated differently.
A person who has a garden does the same thing to their soil. Except they use a tool such as a plow or a hoe to help teal the soil.
This would depend on what type of protective style you opted to wear. If you’re wearing braids, locs, or crochet braids, then it’s definitely easier to get to your scalp. In my professional opinion, I always suggest a minimum of at least once a week. If you’re worried about fuzzing up your braids, I would suggest looking for products that have a nozzle applicator. One such company is Girl and Hair, which was formulated and designed by a black dermatologist Dr. Camille Verovic. Another way you can deep cleanse the scalp is by using a product called Scalp Therapy, by Decca Plus. This is an amazing product that’s formulated to unclog the hair follicle, cleanse, and extract impurities from below the scalp.
When it comes to choosing the best type of protective styling. I want you to think about the following. Pretty shouldn’t hurt. What do I mean by that? Black women in particular have been conditioned to think that if our hair and scalp don’t hurt after a braiding session then something is wrong. You want the exact opposite. Save your edges and protect your crown by making sure that the braids aren’t too tight. If you have to take pain relievers before or afer your install. It’s too tight, sis. I would reccommend the following. Crochet braids, knotless box braids, wigs ( that you can remove daily). The importance of these options is that you’re able to treat your scalp by cleansing, nourishing and moisturizing.
Why Am I Losing My Hair? Six Reasons Your Hair is Falling Out
Sudden hair loss or hair shedding episodes can be nothing short of distressing. Yes, hair fall is a normal part of having hair on your head, but when we start to experience the steady appearance of thinning hair or patchy balding spots, the situation can progress rapidly from being concerning to tragic.
Hair loss or alopecia occurs more frequently in men but does affect one in three women. Thinning hair can launch us into a whirlwind of hair product and styling ritual trial and error practices, generating hopes of finding a hair loss solution. However, it is difficult to manage the problem if you do not know the origin or cause.
Our hair moves through a series of hair growth phases known as the hair growth cycle. It grows from the root or follicle that lies just beneath our skin and relies heavily on the healthy circulation of blood, nutrients, and oxygen that to the scalp region without any disruption. Any hindrance of blood flow or transport of nutrients creates an atmosphere for balding and thinning.
Any number of natural, physical or external factors can disturb the cycle, hurling your hair into the resting phase of the hair cycle too soon. We depend on the hair growth cycle for the arrival of new hair. When there is a disruption in that cycle (i.e., three months or more), we do not gain any new growth. Meanwhile, the remaining tresses on your head become more vulnerable without the proper nutrients leading to an embarrassing of hair loss.
The thing that disturbs or destroys your hair growth cycle can vary. Some of our hair loss is the result of our hair care practices, others may be the result of the genetic makeup, and some individuals may have to endure hair fall that happens in close relationship with external forces.
Whatever the trigger, it is essential that you understand the cause and how to manage it.
We generally lose anywhere from 60 to 100 hairs a day. However, it is important to note that regular hair loss rates do not generate bald patches. We have upwards of 100,000 strands of hair.
There are a variety of factors that may contribute to noticeable hair loss.
Not surprisingly, our hair loss issues may be the result of our genetic makeup. If your mother or father has problems with thinning hair, a receding hairline, or balding, there is a chance that you will also endure the same as you continue to age.
Do not underestimate the power of stress on the rate at which your hair grows or falls out. It is not uncommon for some people to experience a bout of hair loss after a traumatic or stressful event occurs in their life. Two types of hair loss that we can associate with stress are known as telogen effluvium and alopecia areata.
Telogen effluvium can trigger your hair to enter the resting or telogen phase ahead of schedule. When this happens, its only a matter of months before you start to notice a rapid rate of hair loss when styling or washing your hair.
Alopecia areata is another by-product of stress in some individuals. Stress can activate this condition, triggering hair fall as a result of the immune system attacking our hair follicles.
Multiple medical conditions or events can lead to hair loss. Thyroid disease is one of the more common conditions that may wreak havoc on the quality and quantity of hair you have on your head. Thyroid disease occurs when our body produces too little or too much of the thyroid hormone. When this happens thinning hair, or bald patches can emerge if the problem goes without treatment.
Another condition that may contribute to hair loss is iron-deficiency anemia. Low iron levels in our blood are also known to cause hair shed. After all, our red blood cells rely on iron to transport hemoglobin and oxygen throughout the body. If these essential nutrients cannot reach our scalp, our hair will not grow or remain healthy.
The medicines we take for various health conditions including blood pressure, depression, heart disease, and cancer may also lead to thinning hair or balding. Alopecia often occurs as a side effect of consuming these medications because they contain properties that are potent enough to disrupt the hair growth cycle or damage your hair follicles.
Your penchant for wearing certain hairstyles or using certain chemicals on your hair and scalp may result in hair loss. Ponytails, cornrows, improper wig adhesive use or removal, chemical relaxers, hair twists, and braids can all contribute to balding.
Also, hair styling tools like curling irons, flat irons, and blowdryers, with excessive use or extreme heat settings, can damage the overall structure of your hair making it vulnerable for breakage or thinning.
Your hair depends on you to consume healthy foods and to drink plenty of water for hydration. When we fail to incorporate adequate levels of vitamin A, vitamin B, vitamin C, healthy fats, protein, and zinc into our diet, our hair does not always fair well.
In summary, there are multiple reasons you may be experiencing hair loss issues. If you find that some of these issues are not things you can solve for independently, do not be afraid to get help. Hair loss resulting from a medical condition or medication may be curable with the care of a physician.
There are a few over-the-counter medications and creams such as minoxidil that may be able to assist you in treating hair thinning or baldness.
Another excellent option for hair loss may include the use of natural remedies such as essential oils like rosemary oil, tea tree oil, peppermint oil, lemongrass, and clary sage oil to help stimulate the scalp and seal in moisture within your strands.
Finally, contact Melanie Day at You’ve Got Curls and Hair Loss Center for a private consultation. As your hair care professional I can meet with you to provide valuable tips for how to care for your hair and scalp as well as styling options that may be available to fit your individual needs.
For as long as I can remember, I've always been taught that our bodies have this amazing ability to heal itself. The only way it can be done is by proper nutrition, exercise, moderate in habits and being mindful. That's a lot to take in for a kid but as I got older and seeing the wisdom behind it, I really started to appreciate this gift of life even more!
It's 2017 and I've lost a total of three family members to cancer and numerous family members who have diabetes, high blood pressure and other chronic illness. I don't want to become another "statistic" because life is too busy to take care of myself.
I'm learning through this journey called life, that it's predictably unpredictable and I can't control things. However, I can do my part when it comes to preventative measures. These preventative measures include adopting new eating habits, regular massages, facials and communication with close friends. Also, by me sharing this new lifestyle with you, it helps to reinforce the commitment that I've made.
Looking at life through the eyes of a child is like putting on brand new pair of glasses. We as adults tend to overcomplicate things. Children are simple and straight to the point. They actually enjoy stopping to smell the roses. I encourage you to do the same. Join me as I continue down #thebasics road. Slow down and enjoy the little things in life, for the little things are the big things
-MD
Once again hair has been a hot topic in both the national and international press. No, it's NOT about Kylie Jenner and her new hair color. Instead its about how your hair style can prevent you from getting a job or from receiving a well deserved education.
On Thursday September 15th, the 11th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals rejected a lawsuit that was presented by the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission against a company who later terminated Ms. Jones for not complying with their policy. Catastrophe Management Solutions requires that employees be dressed and groomed " in a manner that projects a professional and business like image". When Ms. Jones decided not to remove her locks, the company than withdrew it's offer and she was terminated for not complying. This ruling allows employers to legally band hair styles such as locks. This could be the start to something even bigger in the future.
In my mind, I'm questioning what it actually means to "project a professional and business like image"? Perhaps it means that my hair should be poker board straight. You know, when I turn my head left and right, my hair moves with me type of thing! I wonder if the objection would've been the same if Ms. Jones had worn her hair in an afro or an intricately braided style, or even twists?
This same issue is happening to school age children, and yes even here in the Bluegrass State of Kentucky. This past July, parents and students of Butler Traditional High School in Louisville were informed of the new dress code policies. Students were no longer allowed to wear their hairstyles that were considered "extreme, distracting or attention-getting. The policy went on to state that "No dreadlocks, cornrolls(not my spelling), twists, mohawks, no jewelry worn in the hair. No braids will be allowed on males". To be fair, the student handbook has now been updated.
It's been my personal experience that what is different always seems to draw attention and at times will be distracting. Of course, I'm speaking from experience. As a woman who loves hair and fashion, I'm constantly changing my look. I get the usual questions like, 'how are you able to do so many different things with you hair'? Or, "the entire time I was sitting behind you I was so distracted by how beautiful your braids were!" There are some things that just can't be helped. It's legitimately in my DNA to have this love and passion for my textured hair in whatever way it may come in. Braids, locs, twist or even short cropped cuts on women wasn't something that just recently came onto the scene. It's always been apart of our beautiful and rich culture.
Yes, I can identify with the students at Butler High School and in Pretoria, South Africa because I too was told that in order to fully participate in my cosmetology major, I would need to remove my braids. This was back in 2002. I'd just started my first few months of beauty school. My hair at the time was in braids, as it had been for the summer. When I asked why I had to do this, it was brought to my attention that it would allow me to fully participate with in my clinical. As cosmetology students it was required we spend 300 hours practicing on each other. My instructor was basically telling me that I'll fail the course if I didn't comply and remove my braids so that my hair could be shampooed! As a 17 year old student, it left a major impression as you can still see is with me to this day! I remember going to the salon having my glorious afro relaxed in order to complete school. I had so many emotions going through my head at that time. Anger, sadness, confusion just to name a few.
What has all of this taught me? In 2016 Afro textured hair is still and I'm assume will always be a topic for discussion and misunderstanding. It's unfortunate that our beautiful crown of hair can prevent us from getting the job or education of a lifetime. As always we have to be twice as good, work twice as hard and be twice as smart.
-MD
There are moments when I'm extremely reflective and I do believe this to be one of those days. Perhaps it's because I'll soon be turning 32 at the end of this month.
During my early teens up until my my mid twenties, wearing natural hair was not the norm by any means. In fact while in middle school my hair was often braided and of course there were the kids who would tease and poke fun at me because of how my hair was. In fact one of those names they gave me was Medusa. At the time, I didn't realize that I was being bullied, I just knew how it made me feel. It made me feel that once again I needed to conform to what everyone else was doing in order to fit in.
Fast forward to 2002 when I started cosmetology school and of course still rocking my natural hair (for the moment at least, In another blog I'll share what happened.) . Once again, this was NOT THE NORM but what would this 17 year girl do? For those of you that me know, already know that first I questioned and of course went in the complete opposite direction.. I knew right then and there I wanted to my focus to be on textured hair. During those years I had to learn how to work with what was mine No weave, braids, no nothing, just au naturel. For those ladies out there who love weaves know how addictive they can become. You become this other person, and this inner diva comes out and you instantly feel glamorous. I decided, that I would go without the added hair for awhile and learn how to manage my own hair underneath. Let's just say it was rough and there were times that I didn't even like what I saw looking back me in the mirror. I didn't feel pretty at all! Thankfully, I had amazing parents who helped me to really understand the value of inner beauty. In a world that's so caught up on the what's on the outside of the package, I needed to learn how develop the 'secret person of the heart'. That trait is indestructible and last forever.
Now at the age of 31 going on 32, I've finally welcomed this journey into my life and fully embrace it. I LOVE myself. I LOVE my hair. I LOVE this journey.
-MD
Just last weekend my husband and I attended the Bronner Brother's Hair Show in Atlanta, Ga. It's officially been 4 years since the last time I attended the show. There have been so many positive changes for the good and I'm so happy that we were able to be apart of that!
This year the focus of course was on natural hair in all it's faboulous glory.. Some of my favorite classes were by Simone Hylton of Natural Trendsetters and also Christina Carsillo of Harmony Haarmony Hair Studio. First, let't talk about a few "golden nuggets" that were discovered last weekend that I MUST share with you! In the summer and winter seasons, I always recommend clients to give their hair a break.
This would be by putting your hair up into a protective style or using techniques that require less styling. You would be surprised how much your beautiful tresses would flourish and love you even more. Here's something to remember. Just because, you decide to put your into a protective style ( i.e. braids, weaves, etc) that DOESN'T mean that you can forget about your hair underneath. You still must keep your hair and scalp clean, a long with it staying very nourished.
For those of you who've had the opportunity to sit in my chair for a cut, will know that depending on your curl pattern I will sometimes cut your hair wet or dry. There are various reasons that I do this. The main reason is that I love to see how your hair naturally lives and reacts to products. After taking a Deva Cut inspired class Christina Carsillo does all of her cuts dry! Her clients are a lot like mine. Curl patterns ranging from wavy to tightly afro. I'm now inspired to step outside of my "comfort zone" and try new hair cutting techniques.
Last but not least, I want to talk a little bit about my new salon tools that will change your look and yes, you'll thank me for it. I happened to run into the owners and creators of Wrap-A-Loc. It's a revolutionary hair styling tool and technique that creates tight spiral curls on all types on all hair textures. The tool can be worn in the hair as a style when with water or setting lotion. Your locs will be the best styled in the room. The next new tool that is by Design Essential. It's called STS Smoothing System. This system is proven to temporarily straighten and smooth frizzy, multi-textured, naturally curly, transitioning and chemically treated hair. It allows me to enhance your natural curls or simply calm down the frizz. The best part is that it's so versatile
So, there you have it. Some of the highlights from my short trip to ATL! I look forward to answering your questions and helping you achieve your ultimate hair goals.
-MD
